17 July 2012

The Church at Manolada

 The Church of Manolada, 1987

The Blue Guide says the church of Manolada is 12 C. This is how it looked in June 1987 when I was following the 1205 route of the Franks around the Morea, plus visiting Villehardouin sites.  Because I can find no pictures of the church on the interwebs, and no substantive information either, I thought it might be moderately useful to post the photographs I took on a return visit in 1995 with my daughter, Rosalind.  The photographs were made with a disposable camera at high noon in August: the heat was bewildering, the glare is evident in the pictures, and I didn't really know much about what I was seeing. (I will be grateful for more information, especially of the two saints.) I believe the dedication is to the Virgin.  I have gimped the frescos: they were very pale and with the sunlight photographed even paler.

The thing I loved, though, was that one of the workmen -- it was being restored -- said, "The archaeologist is not here today so we can let you come inside."




 Miracle of St. Nicholas

 Miracle of St. Nicholas

 Burial of St. Nicholas



 Ag. Giorgios

Ag. Demetrios

 Carving, I think, of a centaur.

On my first visit, I went down to the beach where in 1316, Ferdinand of Majorca could see the ships from which he expected aid standing off-shore. The husbands (Ferdinand and Louis of Burgundy) of William Villehardouin's granddaughters (Isabelle and Maude) were to fight that day over control of the Morea. The Angevins against the Catalans. Ferdinand prayed at this little church before the battle, before he was defeated and beheaded on the battlefield.  His head was exhibited over the gate of Clarentza.  Louis died two months later.

 The beach at Manolada, June 1987, 
the wind blowing out from shore as it did that day in 1316.


  1. Hallo Mrs Wright,
    I don't know if you remember me, I am Gregory Manopoulos and we had talked over the internet quite a while ago. You also sent me one of your books! Thank you again and congratulations for both you sites.
    If you Google search "Παλαιοπαναγιά Μανωλάδας" you will get some references, but no photos. The basic publication is here http://tinyurl.com/bnc54zo
    I hope these are helpful.

  2. I do remember. Thank you for writing, and for the book reference.

  3. I find I cannot get this book from any library in the United States. Can someone lend me a copy by mail?

  4. Sorry, it is my fault. This is an article by Bouras in the 4th volume of the Scientific Yearbook of the Thessaloniki University Polytechnic School (long title, isn't it? ). Unfortunately, this volume does not exist in our University library, so I can't offer to scan it for you.

  5. Here you can find all the greek libraries that hold an offprint of the article.

  6. This is very thoughtful of you. Thank you.


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